Saturday, November 3, 2007

gun for hire


Ariel and I drove up to New Jack City to meet up with Mikey and his friends Clark, Alex, and Peter.

They beat us there, so we found them and meet up with them at the north east face of the raven rocks. they already had some routes set up on tr, so they treated us with a work-free warm up. It was here that we got the chance to meet Jack Marshall, which was one of the highlights of the day for sure.
Jack Marshall established New Jack City---poured tons of time energy and money into the place. He was really nice, and talkative. When we showed up he was replacing some cold shuts with chains.


We talked to him a little about his favorite climbs there, and he shared with us what he had been up too. He has been/is establshing a couple new areas up near Williamson (now closed due to access issues). He was a pretty funny and very kind guy.

From there we walked over to the crucified crag, and got on one of our favorites, "Change of sequence". Its a 5.10 and one of the longer climbs there. I really like it. Ariel flashed it / redpointed it. She wasn't 100 percent confident, beforehand, but she did it effortlessly. The two men, (one who bloodied his knees hanging it on toprope) gave her high fives when she got down. Mikey taught two of his friends how to lead, on this heady steep climb called jug hauler.

From there we went to the sunnyside crag. We climbed this cool dihedral, hung out for a bit. Then went over to the hueco wall, and burnt ourselves out, completing these technical crimpy 11's which were really fun and tough. Unfortunately no pictures, because it was only ariel and I, mikey and clark were working on this really hard climb over on sunnyside still.
all in all it was a super fun day.

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