It was a good thing we did. When we got out there, it was pretty happening. We managed to find a ten to "warm up" on. Chris led trundles trophy 10d and i followed, leading near my max fresh out of the car is not what im about. thank YOU chris.
we cleaned that up, and walked over to a project i had in mind. Local strong man chazz, and his kooky friend were on choss goggles, a route directly to the left and which shares the anchors with redrum-what we were eyeing. they let us on the route. i wanted to preplace the draws, but chris was feeling ambitious and put on his leading suit, and hopped right on. he took a solid 12 foot fall, and managed to make it through the crux, but felt really pumped. understandably-he just led a long route, and redrum is a really bouldery/powerful 11c. i pulled the rope and managed to finish the climb, although i pulled the vag card at the crux and kinda/fell, and was being a wus about it. psyched i finished it though. it was suuuuper fun. there are some really cool moves in the crux section. it has this open palm undercling move with some really wierd tension and a knee bar! i was a hair away from redpointing it, taking one wussy unneeded rest. stoked, to come out here and flash it next time. i left the draws up for chazz, and he flashed the heck out of it, with mad style, emphasis on mad. im at least glad that he was breathing heavily during the hard part.
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