you got a nice clean shirt!

rope'd up today!  etienne and i got on some easy sport stuff for his rest day, and my rest/active recovery day.  it was awesome.  the highlight of the day, was etienne in his "flashed" bouldering pants, and his 5ten dragons (downturned toes), climbing up 5.8 slab.    

when alan saw us walking up he shouted "oh no, here comes the boulderers!".  its true. its true. 5th class choss is good times (the approach). 

on the sport climbing bouldering note..  ropeing up today, after bouldering hard for a while, i got to thinking.  simply, bouldering is extremely more fun to me.  I think easy and moderate trad is the ultimate shit----for sure. so sport climbing has it's place--in being training for trad endurance, for me personally it is a means to an end.  and not an end in itself.   back to why i enjoy bouldering more than sport.  in bouldering the movement is much more dynamic, powerful, and intense.  the variety of movement is astonishing, when comparing sport to bouldering.  throws to crimps, diabolique heelhooks over your head, big compression moves, extremely exagerrated dropknees.  take a climb like... the mystery for example, or the sharma scoop, or high plains drifter.  these consist of moves that you would never encounter on a route.  the only way you could get close to doing moves of this interesting nature on a route, would be climbing a crux of an extremely hard route, like 8A+ or something.  and frankly, i dont have the strength/endurance to do the moves leading up to that crux, so i cant get up there, and why train to get there, when i can do it 15 feet off the ground without going through the trouble of roping up.  everything that i have climbed under 5.12 (i can only speak from experience) is pretty much the same; a latter of holds, the harder the grade the longer the lockoffs and the smaller the holds.  yeah, you get a sidepull or an undercling every now and then, but basically same shit.  etienne said it well.  bouldering is stability - amidst instability, and sport climbing is instability amidst stability.  instability is the physically fun shit, so go to where the concentration of that is.  if you want more of a mental game in your climbing, and highballs arent your gig, than go all out and get on a trad route.  bouldering and trad are at the opposite ends of the spectrum, bouldering is extremely powerful  and technical and strongly focuses on the actual physical aspect of climbing.  and trad climbing is extremely mentally challenging, even when the climbing is physically easy.  sport climbing is in the middle, it is not as physical or mental.  there are no v14 boulder problems within sport climb cruxes, and clearly sport climbing is never as "heady" as runout trad.  i have an obsessive personality and always prefer the extreme end of the spectrum.    tis why, i love hard bouldering, and easy trad.  but sport has its place.  

on another note, i started spinning fire the other night.  (poi).  and it was badass.  

just black sheep.

well, i have been pounding ibuprofen, and oral arnica.  i have been applying topical arnica to my ankle, and have been going to the hot springs-and alternating between extreme heat and cold, and been wrapping it often.  i dont think i could have done anything better for it, in the past few days.

it is getting alot better.  i will be climbing in a couple of days for sure.  this is going to be the longest i have ever gone without climbing, since i began climbing.  on that note..  yesterday marked exactly 365 days of climbing.  

JT and Bobo from Wisconsin are rolling out tommorow morning, so we are throwing a little shindig tonight.  they are really cool, and i look forward to meeting up with them in squamish in august.  tonight will consist of alot of Mammoth Epic IPA, and a greasebomb or two around the campfire.  early times whiskey and Pabst Blue Ribbon, are not allowed this time.  F that Shite.

the juno soundtrack is realllllly reallllllly good.  

you should also check out "come over to my place" by "Miss Li"

10,000 b.c.   blew turtle ass.  there is a 4 dollar matinee up here.  it was actually a good way to waste 2 hours, because i was cracking up the whole time.  i didnt know if i wasnt laughing at the movie or with the movie, but it was a j o k e.   and thanks alot ross.  08% on rottentomatoes?!?  you knucklehead.  dont give me that "i want you to watch it and see what you think.."  ok, is sometimes legit if the movie gets a 40-50% but, eight! damn man. 

have you ever heard of Dr. Bronner's soap?  i bought some and take it to the hotsprings, really good shit.

well right now i am sitting at 'the black sheep coffee shop' with my friend etienne, who actually has a pretty cool blog, pepeontheroad.blogspot.com.

so we are about to roll out to the buttermilks to finish our rest day by watching gabriele moroni attempt evilution direct, and matt birch work the sit to rastaman vibration.  

i will leave you with a riddle

campfire riddles have been quite the hit lately.  alot have been passed around.  some are retarded, some are really sweet, and some are ridiculously difficult.  this one isnt too hard, but its cool. 

respond in the comments section, if you want.  no cheating.  fag.

there are two doors.  one leads to life.  one leads to death.  there are two men. one man always lies, invariably.  the other man invariably tells the truth.  you dont know which man is which.  the men are arbitrarily standing in front of the doors (it is not like the liar is in front of death or life, it doesnt matter, and you dont know).  you can ask one man one question, to find out which door leads to life.  what will you ask him?

BOBO!!, shitty news, nice people, and some cool tips.

the news. 

yesterday, i sprained my ankle fairly bad.  freaking sucks.  relatively ironic too, considering, this saturday will mark exactly one year of climbing for me.  

the outlook.

and apart from a couple flappers here and there, and a flexor unit strain, i have been one hundred percent injury free for this whole year.  ive fallen off a shitload of boulders and taken whippers, and this is the first substantial injury.  so im not complaining.  shit happens.  yes it does.  and it is the name of the game.  you learn and move on.  dave graham was out of the picture for over three months a year or so back, and he is crushing like a mofo now.  

the bad.

it is extemely sore.  even after some tylenol t3 with codine, i had alot of trouble sleeping last night.  it really ached.  it is pretty swollen, and extremely stiff.

the good.

after is happened, it blew up and swelled big time,  i compressed it with an ace bandage, popped ibuprofen, iced the shit out of it, and have been keeping it elevated as much as possible, i am doing as much as i can to expedite the recovery process. another 'benefit' of this whole thing, is now i am forced to let my hands heal, which they need too.  working "stained glass" and "flyboy sit start" has really aggravated my A2 pulley, on the middle finger of my right hand, and the flexor unit strain on my ring finger is beginning to get reagitated, and there is a straight up hole on the pad of my index finger.  when all this is healed, flyboy sit will be crushed.  it is going down.  

i am really thankful to all my friends who have been so overwhelming kind.  it is unbelievable.  immediately after it happened, keri gave me her sweatshirt to serve as a pillow as i elevated my leg.  Johan from team sweden immediately wrapped my foot tightly in an ace bandage, keri than ran to find snow to put in a plastic bag, john gave me an apple with peanutbutter and raisins in the core, greg rolled me a much needed cigarette and lit it as i was lying down, clay gave me all the motrin he had, oscar elected himself to carry my crashpad and all my stuff to his car and drive it back to my campsite, tomas and rhonna offered a helping hand to my car and gave me more ibuprofen, etienne was very concerned that it was fractured and rounded the camp "MD" (Claudia) who inspected my foot and ruled it most likely not fractured, she then rewrapped my foot, ET then gave me chips and water, broke up wood, built me a fire, then told me to save my sandwich for tommorow, beacause he was going to cook me a hamburger and fries, and it was DAMN good.  i inhaled it.  et hooked it up.  he also gave me the codine to make it through the night. this all happened within the course of a couple hours.

climbers are collectively the nicest group of people.  period.  i am extremely thankful.

so, here i am.  i will be studying and reading more.  i will be working hard to get this thing healed.  i will be doing pushups and situps.  i will be campusing problems once the hole in my finger is gone.  i will be back in no time.

section two.

The Quintessential Climbers List of Products for Handcare:

this is good shit.

i have an obsessive personality.  i read every new issue of every climbing magazine, UC, climbing, gripped, rock and ice.... I constantly research climbing and all that is related on the internet.  And I talk alot, and am sociable, hence I talk to alot of climbers about, well, everything related to climbing.

through investigation, research, and inquiry, and firsthand empirical observation, i have found the best products for skin and tendon care.

if you are going on an extended climbing trip, you must bring

_________

Skin Preparation (days and nights before climbing):

Mane n' Tail Hoofmaker

AntiHydral

--antihydral is the only product that i have found that can actually harden your skin. it is used by people with prostetics.  antihydral is basically deodorant on steroids.  Cameron Heggi, please take care to read this.  It is very potent and concentrated in it's aluminum content.  It basically clogs your pores with aluminum so that you can not sweat at all.  not only does this mean you have dry hands while climbing, but if used ritually before you go to bed for a week or so before a climbing trip the lack of moisture in your tips will lead to substantial hardening and toughening of the skin, giving them a glassy leathery and firm feel.  brilliant.  antihydral is not FDA approved and must be purchased online.  a more easily accessible alternative is "Drysol", which is basically the same thing, just weaker (lower aluminum percentage).

--hoofmaker.  made by the same folks who make that mane n' tail shampoo.  moisturizing is key. after you climb.  not before.  when you climb all day and use chalk with drying agents, it really takes a toll on your skin, and you really want to wash your hands thoroughly and then moisturize as soon is possible.  this helps to speed skin recovery, and also prevents the horrid reality of "split tips", which are cracks that form when your skin is too dry.  they are nasty, painful, and take a while to heal.  hoofmaker is an especially great moisturizer because it contains active proteins and enzymes, that produce tough skin.  and it contains good stuff like coconut oil also.  it is not easy to find, i found some at the saddlery in town.  definitely worth it.  i am really psyched on this one.

Skin Prep (immediately before climbing)

Alcohol

tape

Metolius SuperChalk

-alcohol cleans your skin and drys it out.  which is key.

-superchalk is the best chalk on the market.  it contains highly effective drying agents.

-taping tendons and joints is soooooo important.  so important.  if you dont know how, ask me.  it is hard to describe in words. i can point you to some articles or diagrams

--please note.  these suggestions are pointed towards those with normal to sweaty hands.  if your hands are normally dry, taking the measures listed above along with the antihydral would be a bad idea, as your hands would overdry and crack.

Restoration and Preventive soft tissue / joint treatment:

Peaceful Mountain Tendon Rescue  (arnica)

Glucosamine / Chondroitin

-glucosamine and chondroitin help in joint and cartilage repair and strengthening.  there is no reason why you should not be taking this.

-there are alot of "soft tissue repair" supplements out there.  they are mostly all hokie.  this one may also be hokie.  but it is widely used, and i like it alot.  arnica.  it is a topical ointment that penetrates the skin and increases circulation.  thats all.  it is very good to use this, and as you are rubbing it in, proceed with a deep tissue massage treatment on the affected tendon.

Skin Trauma Repair:

Climbon

Sandpaper

krazyglue

cuticle clippers

tape

-raw skin, holes, cuts, scrapes.  climbon is the best shit.  use it.  religiously and often, and you WILL heal faster.  this is true.  but dont use it before or during climbing.  that is a horrible horrible idea. other alternatives can be vitamin E oil, or cocoa butter.

tear a flapper?  but your close to sending, and are not willing to throw in the towel.  i hear you, i never let that bullshit slow me down.  F that.  first, take some pain killers, this will make climbing on the the finger easier and the whole process described below easier.  first wash it. pour alcohol on it.  cut off excess skin (cuticle cutter work best because they are precise and sharp).  all excess skin. you dont want it to tear farther.  put krazyglue (nontoxic) in the wound and then press it together, and hold it for 30 seconds.  then, put more krazyglue around the affected area, and tightly tape a couple layers of tape around the pad of the finger.  make sure to also tape the end of tape so it doesnt unravel.  make sure it isnt cutting off the circulation but it decently tight.  it will loosen with movement (climbing).  i like to put just enough tape, and not overdo it, so i can still feel the crystals in the granite.  same mentality behind not wearing socks with climbing shoes.

-sandpaper, this one should be up top under preventative.  this is also key.  make sure your calluses are even and rounded.  you do not want loose skin that is raised, this, if rubbed against the rock correctly, will cause a flapper.  my buddy johan uses razor blades instead of sanpaper, this is good because you dont overdo it which you can with sandpaper, but i believe it is scarier, you can potentially really fuck yourself over.  a good compromise is to use a very fine grit paper, and take your time.  

more articles to come soon.

__________

pitsters.

this is my buddy ian.

true.

NO. I mean the nature of you.

Im very grateful because.. for the first time in my life, I am enjoying and content with what I am experiencing while i am experiencing it, instead of taking it for granted and being totally bummed later on, while reminiscing. Coming out here has been the sickest few months of my life by far, and im glad I am at least mature enough to recognize that... I dont feel I would have appreciated it as much two years ago.  

for instance,

 my day yesterday... slept in.  Made pancakes.   In bacon grease.  With Nutella.  complimented by espresso, and tobacco.  Walked around the campground, and talked to new visitors from canada, and checked in with a few other groups of friends I have made who have been here for a while.  Those two hours described right there were sick.  Went on to climb at the buttermilks with John and Carrie.  We had a real bitchin time.  Warmed up on classics, I finally touched THE PROJECT of my bouldering career, repeated some hard problems, helped and joked around with matt birch by throwing him cleaning instruments, while he was rappelling on the grandpapeabody face.  Had a really good beer right after climbing.  Made some really bomb pasta and ate around the fire with a couple from new york, three canadians, and a kid from the netherlands... we had some great laughs.  Went to the hot springs... which were freaking hot.  Came back, kicked back a couple more beers and smoked hookah around another fire with some other kids from wisconsin i had just met.  

The other morning, the hardest decision I had to make all day, the most pressing issue, the topic of 30 minute dialogue between john and i,  was;  where are we going to climb today??  

thats freaking sick.

By far.  By far by far.  The most cherished aspect of this whole trip is the interaction with drastically unique people and forming of lasting friendships with genuine people, who are of all ages and cultural backgrounds.  from ex-druggie teenagers from the bay area.. to mature married couples from canada.. to firefighters from basque country..   to gym rats from a couple hours north.. to photography students.    

these interactions, and many friendships greatly surpass any measurable gain in climbing strength or knowledge or technique or any ticklist.

. . . friendo?

This weekend was sweet.  the two Mikes, Cole, Tommy, and Brian, all came up to climb/visit on friday night.  We climbed hard saturday and sunday.  And had a sweet night saturday night consisting of: stolen pallets (alot), lighter fluid, slacklining, burr (fosters), music, and a couple laughs.

We climbed hard on saturday at the happies and sunday at the buttermilks. It was a really sweet weekend.

a few noteworthy ascents:

my first two gos on the hulk on saturday, i made it farther than i had ever been, and fell throwing for the last good rail (v2ish move).  Then tried it again and fell at the previous move.  I was way past any cruxes.  This is becoming comical.

i sent action figure v6 *** classic.  it is really sweet.  it starts off really steep, and during the crux you have to lockoff really hard on a left hand crimp, and bust a crazily exaggerated dropknee---all this to find a mono / 1.5 finger finger stack, pocket for the right hand way high up.  then two more deadpoints to good holds with poorish feet and its over.

I sent two highballs!  Finally sacked up and sent heavenly path v1***. which will make a very sweet addition to the circuit.

then i made work of Rene v5 ***(after two days).  In the guide wills calls it an "exacting highball", the crux is pulling really hard and locking off on a very very sharp very very small pocket, off the deck.  it is an aesthetically amazing line on positive rock, painted with gold orange red yellow green and black lichen.  this was huge for me mentally and physically, i was super stoked.

I onsighted three classics at the milks, funky tut, king tut, and this v2 highball called sheepherder.

and i kind of had a little moment on this 3starclassic v4 highball called bowling pin.  i was super scared during the rockover move and screaming like a little girl.  then way off the deck on the slab i went for a super high highstep with a really poor left hand, and frankly almost broke my leg, i was more than 20 feet off the deck screaming no at my foot as i stuttered through weighting the highstep.  it was really scary and entertaining for all watching.  

it is really stinking windy right now.  heggi if you are reading, i am sorry.  so your tent had difficulty in the wind last time, so i put a bunch of rocks in it, and am storing this kid nicks 50 pound generator.  i figure there is no way it is moving.  every stake is deep in the ground and rocks are piled on the stakes.  well. that tent has weak poles i guess.  but out of nowhere today, a freaking hurricane sandstorm hit, closing highways and flipping campers trailers and even a huge 100 pound trash dumpster that is in the campground.  to say the least your entire tent is never to be seen again except for a 2X2 frayed piece of frabic that is underneath the generator.  

sorry man, it hit too fast, i wasnt at the camp when it did, and i took all the precautionary steps that i could.

i have been camping out and chilling with these two kids from brooks photography school.  they each roll around with over 15,000 dollars in equipment and take photos all day.  they are super funny guys.  they are here through the next weekend. (on a long field trip)

i will leave you with a quote that jeff (one of the brook's students) said this morning.  preface:  we were commenting on the fact that he slept outside last night on his cot, not in a tent or car.  "well, tents are cool and all, for the elements and shit--but dude (gesturing) look, i have a 100 million acre bedroom"  he really owned it, and said it funny.

Compared to what? The bubonic plague?

I just got pulled over for having a front headlight out.  The cop reeked like hardcore alcohol.  He decided to give me a fix-it ticket for my proof of insurance that was expired two days ago.  

----yeh that is real.   freaking knucklehead.

so i got a ride to the buttermilks today with three canadians and this guy greg.  it was a trip.  for sure.  greg, climbed with his shirt off all day, talked extremely homo, had a well groomed lassie dog named dutchess, and climbed all problems below v3 barefoot---his nails were painted pink.  

a little awkward.

noe's friends backed out on him for the weekend, so he isnt coming down.  but even better (hopefully noe doesnt know about this blog) Mike and Brian and Cole, all stoney point buddies are coming up tommorow night!  im super psyched.  they are all strong climbers.  i havent bouldered with them since i was way behind the level they climbed.  and they are funny as hell.  it should be sick.  

talked to matt birch again today at the buttermilks.  lol. im such a starstruck newbie climber still. its true.

coffee shop is closing at ten.

and im out.