. . . friendo?

This weekend was sweet.  the two Mikes, Cole, Tommy, and Brian, all came up to climb/visit on friday night.  We climbed hard saturday and sunday.  And had a sweet night saturday night consisting of: stolen pallets (alot), lighter fluid, slacklining, burr (fosters), music, and a couple laughs.

We climbed hard on saturday at the happies and sunday at the buttermilks. It was a really sweet weekend.

a few noteworthy ascents:

my first two gos on the hulk on saturday, i made it farther than i had ever been, and fell throwing for the last good rail (v2ish move).  Then tried it again and fell at the previous move.  I was way past any cruxes.  This is becoming comical.

i sent action figure v6 *** classic.  it is really sweet.  it starts off really steep, and during the crux you have to lockoff really hard on a left hand crimp, and bust a crazily exaggerated dropknee---all this to find a mono / 1.5 finger finger stack, pocket for the right hand way high up.  then two more deadpoints to good holds with poorish feet and its over.

I sent two highballs!  Finally sacked up and sent heavenly path v1***. which will make a very sweet addition to the circuit.

then i made work of Rene v5 ***(after two days).  In the guide wills calls it an "exacting highball", the crux is pulling really hard and locking off on a very very sharp very very small pocket, off the deck.  it is an aesthetically amazing line on positive rock, painted with gold orange red yellow green and black lichen.  this was huge for me mentally and physically, i was super stoked.

I onsighted three classics at the milks, funky tut, king tut, and this v2 highball called sheepherder.

and i kind of had a little moment on this 3starclassic v4 highball called bowling pin.  i was super scared during the rockover move and screaming like a little girl.  then way off the deck on the slab i went for a super high highstep with a really poor left hand, and frankly almost broke my leg, i was more than 20 feet off the deck screaming no at my foot as i stuttered through weighting the highstep.  it was really scary and entertaining for all watching.  

it is really stinking windy right now.  heggi if you are reading, i am sorry.  so your tent had difficulty in the wind last time, so i put a bunch of rocks in it, and am storing this kid nicks 50 pound generator.  i figure there is no way it is moving.  every stake is deep in the ground and rocks are piled on the stakes.  well. that tent has weak poles i guess.  but out of nowhere today, a freaking hurricane sandstorm hit, closing highways and flipping campers trailers and even a huge 100 pound trash dumpster that is in the campground.  to say the least your entire tent is never to be seen again except for a 2X2 frayed piece of frabic that is underneath the generator.  

sorry man, it hit too fast, i wasnt at the camp when it did, and i took all the precautionary steps that i could.

i have been camping out and chilling with these two kids from brooks photography school.  they each roll around with over 15,000 dollars in equipment and take photos all day.  they are super funny guys.  they are here through the next weekend. (on a long field trip)

i will leave you with a quote that jeff (one of the brook's students) said this morning.  preface:  we were commenting on the fact that he slept outside last night on his cot, not in a tent or car.  "well, tents are cool and all, for the elements and shit--but dude (gesturing) look, i have a 100 million acre bedroom"  he really owned it, and said it funny.