Thursday, January 3, 2008

quickrete and american spirits

i could use some of both.  Much apologies for the long stretch between this post and the last.  Alot went down, alot of bad not alot of good.  But Happy New Years, Im glad its here.  With that said, I will be posting very often from now on.  So I am officially settled in up here in Bishop.  I am currently living in "the Pit", its a climber's campground just north of bishop.  I plan on rocking out the 60 day limit and then setting up shop in the buttermilks.  The two camerons and michael, came up to boulder the past couple days.  It must me mentioned that they reinforced the shit out of my tent situation.  My four season is set up really well and staked down tight, and inside i have a king size cots that barely squeezes in.  The vestibule is nice and roomy.  Then I have another tent with its vestibule facing directly mine, nearly connecting the two tents.  And 10 inch walls of stone tightly packed around the entire structure.  Freaking gypsy.  Its way legit.  So yeah im pretty stoked on that.  And pretty not stoked on the weather brewing.  Starting tonight until the end of sunday a gnarly storm is coming in, full of 50mph winds, rain, snow, sleet, cold, you name it.  So, no climbing until monday it looks like.  If i can squeeze a happy boulder session into saturday or sunday, i will, if not i will be reading. Alot.  The first time I went to the buttermilks, about 7 months ago, I hated it.  It was pretty, but thats about it.  every time I go back I like it more and more, and after today it most definitely is my favorite place to boulder.  I added another route to my list of must-do projects for this season, seven spanish angels, at the get carter boulder. Its a knobby featured gently overhung face.  really clean. perfect height, tall, not super highball, but the end moves are definitely spicy. for hands, it has crazy crimps, a meathook, a nice pinch, it requires a shload of body tension, a couple backsteps, a really positive heelhook, a dyno at the end, asthetically pleasing.  beautiful problem.  it should go next time i try it.   another highlight of today was two new ascents i had of three star classic testpieces at the birthday boulders.  im psyched on climbing right now, the lack of climbing during december definitely helped to grow some strong motivation, im feeling really strong and the fingers arent too tweaked.  even though im dreading the weather, it will be good to take a couple days of rest, i climbed hard today.  I think monday I am just going to go straight to high plains drifter in the peabody area, and put in some solid work on it.  that will be it for now, right now i am sitting in "the looney bean" coffee shop.  

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