Wednesday, January 9, 2008

cholos are using arnica

the day after my last post, i got my car stuck in the buttermilks.  it sucked.  i definitely wasnt the only one.  the road blows hard right now.  but is getting better.
so, the volcanic tableland it has been.
today, i inadvertently climbed with two climbing "stars" if you will.  the first, although weaker, was much more exciting.  you know that hippy dude from king lines?  the guy that coached sharma, and did that multipitch trad route on the video? you know, john lennon.  yeh well i am working on this impossible project called redrum, and i turn the corner and this guy, basically wearing the exactly same thing as he is in the movie, beanie, purple round glasses, long hair.  i asked him if he was from santa cruz , and he said yes, and if he was in king lines.  it was really cool, he was linking easyish problems with traverses and stuff, breathing EXACTLY like he did on king lines.  super chill guy, he said he is here for the winter, so im stoked to climb some more with him. funny as hell.  
then im up in the action figure cave working on this one move wonder thing, and this wiry guy walks in and cruises the line, and flashes the v9 right beside it.  i thought it was matt birch, but didnt want to sound stupid so looked in my guide book to make sure, then proceeded to introduce myself.  very very humble guy.  people talk about humble climbers, but usually they have this air about them that portrays false humility.  not this guy, super nice, asked my friend how his hand was doing, because it was taped, shared spots, really quiet.  if you havent heard of him, he is as strong as it gets.  v14+ strong.  he put up the swarm in the buttermilks, somewhere in time at the tramway.  i wonder why he is up here, today he just hiked up all the classic routes in the v6 to v10 range.  maybe goldfish trombone? probable some project in the buttermilks, i dont know, but it would be sweet to witness.  
so i am definitely not climbing tommorow.  i hope. i have been here 8 days so far, and climbed all day full days pulling really hard for 7 of them, and im feeling really tweaked beaten and sapped.  so tommorow im going to come into town, get a shower, haircut, and take care of some stuff. 

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